Hanuman Garhi: The Guardian of Ayodhya

The story

When Shri Ram was about to leave the world, tradition says, he entrusted Ayodhya to Hanuman and asked him to stay and guard it. Hanuman is therefore the kotwal, the guardian, of the city, and Hanuman Garhi is his seat: a temple built like a small fort (garhi) on a mound in the middle of the old town, from which he is believed to keep watch over the Janmabhoomi.

The logic of the custom

Pilgrims go to Hanuman Garhi before Shri Ram Janmabhoomi Mandir. The reasoning is the same as calling on the gatekeeper before entering a house: one asks the guardian's leave to see the Lord. It also reflects a belief that runs through the Ramayana, that the way to Ram is through his devotee. Tulsidas puts it in the Hanuman Chalisa: you guard Ram's door, and none enters without your leave.

What you will see

Seventy-six steps lead up to a walled enclosure with round bastions at its corners. In the main shrine is a small image of the child Hanuman seated in the lap of his mother Anjani, covered in garlands. The temple is in the care of an old order of Ramanandi sadhus. The present structure dates from the eighteenth century, and tradition credits a Nawab of Awadh with granting land and support for it after a prayer was answered, a reminder of the shared history of this region. From the top there is a wide view over Ayodhya.

Tips for darshan

• Tuesdays and Saturdays are Hanuman's days and are very crowded; go early in the morning.
• The steps are steep. Elders may prefer to go slowly with a hand on the rail; ask the temple staff about assistance.
• Besan laddoos are the traditional offering and are sold in the lane below. Buy from a shop that shows prices.
• Watch your belongings and footwear in the crowded lane, and be careful of monkeys if you are carrying prasad in your hand.

Many visitors recite the Hanuman Chalisa or the Sundara Kanda here. Next, walk to Dashrath Mahal and Kanak Bhawan. Related reading: Humility and service.