Kanak Bhawan: The Palace of Sita and Ram

The story

Kanak means gold. When Sita arrived in Ayodhya as Ram's bride, tradition says, Queen Kaikeyi presented her with a palace of gold as her "muh dikhai", the gift a mother-in-law gives on first seeing the bride's face. Kanak Bhawan stands where that palace is believed to have stood. It was the private home of Ram and Sita, and devotees still regard it as her house; here Ram is the husband and son-in-law, and the mood is tender rather than royal.

There is a quiet irony that pilgrims often remark on. The same Kaikeyi who gave Sita a golden palace later sent her to the forest. The Ramayana does not let one act cancel the other; see the Ayodhya Kanda and Respect for parents and teachers.

History of the building

Tradition holds that the palace was rebuilt several times over the ages, by Kush, by King Vikramaditya and by others. The temple seen today was built in 1891 by Maharani Vrishbhanu Kunwari of Orchha and Tikamgarh in Bundelkhand, and its architecture, with arched galleries around a large open courtyard, resembles a Bundela palace more than a typical temple.

What you will see

The sanctum holds three pairs of idols of Ram and Sita of different sizes, wearing gold crowns. The courtyard often has devotees singing bhajans, and in the month of Sawan the deities are placed on swings during the Jhula festival. The evening lighting is beautiful.

Tips for visiting

• It is a short walk from Hanuman Garhi and Dashrath Mahal; most pilgrims see the three together.
• The temple closes for some hours in the middle of the day, as most temples in Ayodhya do. Plan for morning or evening.
• Sit for a few minutes in the courtyard; it is one of the calmer places in the old town.

Next: Shri Ram Janmabhoomi Mandir or Sita ki Rasoi.