Saryu Ghat and the Evening Aarti

The river

Ayodhya exists because of the Saryu. The Ramayana's first description of the city places it on this river's bank, and the river is present at the beginning and the end of Ram's life: King Dasharatha performed his sacrifice on its northern shore, and Ram, his work done, walked into its waters at Guptar Ghat. Tradition describes the Saryu as rising from Lake Manasarovar in the Himalayas. For the people of Ayodhya she is a mother, addressed as Saryu Maiya.

The ghats

Naya Ghat is the main riverfront near the old town, with a broad paved promenade. Close by are Lakshman Ghat, named for Lakshmana, and the area known as Swargdwar, "the gate of heaven", an old cluster of temples and bathing places. Ram ki Paidi is a few minutes' walk inland.

The evening aarti

Every evening at about sunset priests offer aarti to the river with tall brass lamps, incense, conch and bells while devotees sing. It lasts roughly half an hour. Arrive 20 to 30 minutes early for a place on the steps; there is no charge. Many pilgrims float a small leaf-boat with a lamp and flowers afterwards.

The logic of the custom

Why worship a river? The practical answer is older than any temple: a city lives by its water, and a people who are taught to bow to a river are less likely to foul it. The devotional answer is gratitude. The aarti is a daily thank-you to what sustains life.

Boat rides

Boatmen offer short rides that give a fine view of the ghats and, at dusk, of the aarti from the water. Agree the fare before boarding, insist on a life jacket, and avoid overloaded boats.

Bathing safely

• Bathe only at built ghats, within the chains and railings.
• The current is strong and the bed uneven, especially from July to September.
• Do not let children or non-swimmers go beyond knee depth.
• Change at the facilities provided, and keep valuables with someone on the bank.

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